Home!
We’re home safe and sound. Look for photos from the trip in the next day or two, as well as some posts that really needed some photos to make any sense.
We’re home safe and sound. Look for photos from the trip in the next day or two, as well as some posts that really needed some photos to make any sense.
10 years ago I read Galen Rowell’s Mountain Light. An amazing landscape photographer, Galen wrote a serious of books on both photography and the process and people behind it. One section of Mountain Light in particular has stuck with me. After he’s traveled and photographed a new area, he’ll show the locals his work and almost always get the same response: “no, that’s not quite what it looks like”. Flipping through his photos, when the nee plus ultra photo comes up, the idylic, beyond perfection photo, THAT’s the one that looks right! Yes, he captured it correctly!
Barring philosophical discussion on the real world, it appears we all walk around with idealized models of our world. Yes, that mountain is pretty, but these average photos aren’t the real mountain It’s only when we see the most spectacular and perfect images possible to capture that they align with our mental model. Galen constantly ran into this. One of the best photographers of the late 20th century, and only occasionally could he capture something that came close the idealized picture we all carry around.
I’ve found this concept – that we carry around in our head only the best of the best, the real world not always living up – one that constantly pops up during travel. It’s impossible for me NOT to compare each and everything I see, do, eat, experience with the best elsewhere. Photographs are always a pale representation of the place itself. Drivers honk 3x more in India vs. Vietnam. Cambodian ruins are young compared with Egyptian temples. This street market is tiny vs that one in Shanghai. etc.
It’s hard not to digress into some odd places – why do we take vacation? What are we looking for that spending thousands of dollars in far flung places provides? As a great photographer like Galen did, or a mediocre one such as myself attempts, I keep trying to see what’s in front of me, appreciate the light I’m seeing now, capture and lock away the best of the best for reflection and enjoyment later.
My travel packing arrangements have fallen into a very regular pattern: wait until <12 hours before my flight, and throw random crumpled up items of clothing into a carry-on sized bag. Push if necessary. I survive, through I forget something and bring the wrong things 100% of the time.
This will come as no surprise to anyone, but Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam are hot. “Africa Hot”. And humid. Basically, it’s my mom’s hell on earth. (The ubiquity of cilantro here seals the deal. I can officially think of no worse place on the planet for her. We even had a thunderstorm here this morning!) I have limited experience with nasty hot weather, having totally blotted all memory of summers growing up in New Jersey, so I needed to know how to minimize the temperature related humidity. My usual packing methodology would not work here. Instead, I spent a month reading, thinking and trying stuff out.
Perusing the internet, “loose cotton clothing” constantly comes up as the thing to wear. “Boat pants”, those loose bag like things of cotton you tie on, are spoken of in reverence and revulsion, for their comfort and looks respectively. Long pants are suggested by all out of respect: for the culture, and for the sun. Armed with this knowledge, and the awareness that the stuff in my closet would bake me, I moved on to the next stage: Procurement.
As any good bureaucrat is well aware, the simple purchase of items is not procurement. Proposals must be submitted. Alternatives must be solicited. Guarantees and contracts are required. In my case, this boiled down to a simple, if stupidly time consuming process:
After much good-hearted arguing about “imperialist styling”, and being mistaken at a glance for a good colonist, I settled on just a few articles:
I sprayed my long sleeve shirts with permathrin – a scary chemical that prevents buggies from getting you. It’s been surprisingly bug free, so I have no idea if it’s effective, but for $7 for 3 articles of clothing, what the hell.
Besides the above, I brought a pair of travel slacks and khacki pants, plus 2 pairs of shorts and some underwear, a bathing suit and a lightweight fleece. I threw into the bag 1 Abecrombie polo – my daily shirt back home. It’s way too warm for any non-airconditioned space – I wore it one night in Bangkok, and have only worn it for plane since. My 22” carry-on bag is less than half full of clothing. We used the rest of the space for the odds and ends we’ve picked up along the way.
With this little clothing, I planned on doing a wash every few days. The synthetic stuff is great – wash it at 7pm, and it’s usually dry the next morning. Any cotton clothing takes at least 2 days in this humid weather to dry. Heck, my kahkis are hanging up next to me right now still trying to dry after 3 days.
Final words – if you’re going to buy clothing, hunt around, especially with sierratradingpost.com. Some of this stuff retails for $80/item or more, but can often be found on sale for $25.
Hoi An is a town of tailors. Their shops, lining every street, are filled with little women in flowing ao dai (the traditional dress over pantaloons that, aptly quipped, “covers everything, but hides nothing"), all ready to bat their lashes and convince you to order more than you intended. Every day, in shops all over town, the ao dai change colors: Sunday is pink, Monday white, Tuesday gray… Our tailor just shrugged when we asked the origin of the local tradition.
The choices for clothing here are overwhelming. There may well be a hundred or more tailors in and around town and every shop proudly displays the same styles in the same colors out front, none seeming to aspire higher than mid-tier catalog garb. How they all chose to make that particular apple green jacket with the hood and offset closure I do not know. A few of the popular "rack" styles are cute and very on trend. Others look like prom or bad bridesmaid dresses that would be more at home under fluorescent lights in a soulless department store basement. Looking only at the sidewalk showings, I wouldn’t have ordered a thing. Only the relative success stories of friends at home carried me inside.
There are three stores that advertise on billboards in the Danang airport and along the road leading into town: Yaly, Thu Thuy, and A-Dong Silk. The first two were most often recommended in our pre-trip research. A very stylish friend had told us about the shop Queen Margaret of Spain visited in 2002—if it’s good enough for an actual queen!—so we went first to Thu Thuy.
I had brought two items with me to guide the tailors: a favorite wrap shirt ruined in dry cleaning and my most flattering but now too big slacks. Thu Thuy had a fairly broad selection of fabrics and colors, with and without stretch, in patterns and solids. No perfect matches, but good choices. We had been warned that impostor fabrics are common and to ignore the labels on the fronts of the swatch books. The names stitched into the bolt edging seem to me more likely to be the real deal, but who knows.
I went back for a fitting on day two. Shirt: perfect copy. Pants: needed some adjustment, but close enough to order another, more casual pair. And another color of my favorite casual dress. And shift dress I had started to fantasize about—just in case round one went well.
Next fitting the evening of day two. A few finished items, a few with earlier fixes missing, and one disaster. The shift dress was a mess, completely unwearable, nothing like the pictures I had given them. Broken lines, the omission of key seams, etc. made us think they were trying to copy without understanding design fundamentals.They had to summon the tailor in person to figure out what to do about it. (Usually customer interaction is managed by people other than the ones doing the sewing.) Some of what they had done was fixable. A big part of the dress had to be scrapped completely. They were good sports about it though, some frustrated looks, but no argument. I still left expecting to write off the finished product. They continued to suggest that I should order more clothes though. I conceded that if they managed to get the shift dress perfect the next day—fat chance!—I would get another.
Morning of our last day: completely redone dress! Huge improvements! Very close. Enough that between the excitement and the reminder of my offhand agreement, I was back in the swatches, ordering another in a very different fabric. That second dress missed some of the changes we had made to the first. Do they copy before they fix? In this case, different is not bad. I like both versions.
I didn’t negotiate the price at all. I don’t know whether you’re supposed to, but my salesgirl/fitter, Hai, knocked down the price for me a little on my second order. I picked the most expensive materials (which make up most of the cost), and my clothes ranged in price from $35 for the cotton wrap shirt to $150 for dress of Dolce & Gabbana wool with silk lining. Not cheap, but relative bargains for the quality and fit.
Meanwhile, to hedge our bets at Thu Thuy, Oren decided on day one to get a dress shirt made at Yaly. Their fabrics weren’t up to his usual standards, but were fully passable. (They had a drastically smaller selection of fabrics for women’s clothes; no stretch wools and only a handful of patterned wools other than pinstripes.) The fit was close on his second visit, very good on pickup. Using their most expensive cotton, his shirt came to $43 and turned out pretty well. At three times the price but with Borelli and Brioni fabrics, he still prefers his Hong Kong tailor (MyTailor.com).
We didn’t get anything made at A-Dong Silk, but the mid-twenties Australian couple we met on the flight in had things made at all three of these shops and said they liked A-Dong the best, though it was by far the most expensive.
Here’s what I learned from all of this. If I was to do it again, for any nice items, I would bring an example of what I wanted to copy, or at least a close pattern. Bringing magazine photos of what you want will do in a pinch, just don’t expect details like seam placement and finishing touches to come close. I don’t think they see a lot of designer apparel so they have trouble understanding or envisioning more advanced designs without seeing a concept applied. Being picky about fabric quality and usually having a particular look in mind, I would also bring my own fabric. The selection at Britex in San Francisco dwarfs all the shops in Hoi An combined. Even going in without these insights though, I’m so far happy with what I got, and the experience was mostly fun. Hopefully the satisfaction lasts.
You know how to cross the street, right? You learned how years ago – look both ways, wait for no cars, only cross at crosswalks, walk quickly across, wait for green lights, etc.
What happens when everyone ignores the lights, there are ALWAYS vehicles, and cross walks may only be there to make it easier to hit pedestrians? In Hanoi at least, the simple answer – just do it. No matter how crazy the traffic, everyone is driving quite slow here – max of maybe 25mph, and often slower. Perhaps because the stakes aren’t as high (15mph moto vs 60mph car), pedestrian here have a different approach. Wade on in.
There do seem to be a few key rules to wading into traffic. First, move slowly. Second, look both ways all the time. Even on a one way street, cars and motos may choose to go the wrong way. Third, move slowly.
On the busiest streets, with hundreds of motobikes wizzing by, it works like this: put a foot into the road. Walk about 0.5-1mph across the street. Stop mid pace if it gets totally crazy. Let the traffic part around you. Slowly keep walking to the other side. DO NOT make any sudden movements, speed up, or jerk to a stop. Smooth. And voila, you’re on the other side.
Until we learned this, it was taking us a while to get across. We’ve seen multiple other white folks stranded by the side of the road for minutes until we’ve walked across very slowly. They immediately follow up and seem relieved to have made it.
It is easy to spend a lot on food in Hoi An. While many places there offer wonderful settings, Mango Rooms and Thi Nhan were by far our best—and most expensive—meals.
Mango Rooms has gotten plenty of well-deserved accolades and guide book endorsements. It’s far from traditional food, which can be a welcome break on a long trip. And, it’s just plain tasty. The view from the bar on the second floor balcony
doesn’t hurt either. The ever-so-light vegetable tempura—including squash blossoms!–and cocktails with fresh mango and passion fruit, ginger and lemongrass were the standouts. The fish of the day was also very good. The crystal rolls, forgettable. Chef Duc stars (and double stars) "favorites/sexy/yummy" (each page has a different footnote) that did end up being the best of our choices. If in doubt, go with those. Mango Mango, Duc’s other lounge restaurant across the river, facing the Japanese bridge, has a different menu but similar food. We ended up there on our last night when searching for the best vantage point to watch the full moon festival that had darkened the center of town. I was devastated when they didn’t have the tempura on the menu. They must had read my mind: we got two tempura squash blossoms as an amuse.
We biked to Thi Nhan (formerly the Quan Nhan restaurant described by New York Times food critic Amanda Hesser–it seems the former co-owner is now out of the picture) for lunch on the way to the beach our second day. We would not have found it without our hotel’s instructions to look for Full Moon across the street and the printout of the NY Times review tacked to the door. We were the only customers but didn’t mind. We had the choice between a $30 menu for two and a $50 menu, both five courses of fresh local seafood, the difference being "bigger crab." We went with the smaller portions, which we still couldn’t quite finish (though the crab was indeed tiny). The crab with the ginger-tamarind-lemongrass sauce, the shrimp with fried garlic, and the clams with I don’t know what (I usually don’t even like clams!) were outstanding, the fish and calamari also good if ordinary. Thankfully, Thi Nhan also shelled the crab for us at the table.
As for the rest of our meals: Hoi An Cargo Club was decent but not memorable aside from the particularly pungent fish. We tried the local specialties cau lau,, the white rose, and another noodle dish, as well as spicy eggplant, at Brother’s Cafe and found them all rather bland, but it’s possible that’s the style. We haven’t found much heat in the food in Vietnam, despite our best efforts. (Oren also got eaten alive by bugs at Brother’s, so we cut short our lingering there.) The beachfront restaurant we visited (the fifth one north of where the main road hits the beach, I believe) was passable, but nothing special.
Mango Rooms
111 Nguyen Thai Hoc
On the street that runs along the north side of the river, just east of the bridge that’s towards the center of town. Mango Mango is across the river, facing the Japanese bridge.
Ti Nhan
128 Cua Dai – Cam Chau
3 km from Hoi An, 1 km from Cua Dai beach, on the north side of the main road connecting the two, close to Full Moon (which is on the south side of the street)
Several other restaurants came up as recommended in our research. Of those, here are the ones we wish we had had a chance to try:
Hoi An was a late addition to our itinerary. Sure, we had seen the UNESCO World Heritage former port listed in our guide books and referenced in some articles as a good day trip from Da Nang. I had read much more about the former capital city of Hue, a few hours north. Hoi An registered in my research as little more than a good stopping point to book-end a journey between Hue and Da Nang along the coast and over the Hai Van pass. Then I got an email full of SE Asia tips from an old friend who used to live in Hong Kong. Her words: "Get clothes made in Bangkok, unless you are gong to Hoi An. Then get clothes made there." I was intrigued.
Our trip had already ballooned to nearly four weeks and it still felt like we would be rushing too much from place to place. Something had to go. We read more. We debated. We looked at flickr. In the end, we cut Hue and the journey along the coast in favor of a relaxed four nights in Hoi An. I am so glad we did.
I am on a Jetstar flight now, Da Nang behind me, trading Hoi An for Ha Noi. Excited for what’s next, but a little sad to be leaving Hoi An. Setting aside the distance, I would come back here in a heartbeat.
The town doesn’t put its age on display. On first impression, it’s a little bit Epcot Center, with its clean streets, colorful buildings, Japanese bridge over a lazy river, and abundant paper lanterns sporting the flag colors and names of countries half way round the world. The town is bigger than I expected–perhaps twenty leisurely minutes to walk across in any direction. There are no cars allowed on the streets at the heart of the town, but most of the traffic even in surrounding areas has only two wheels anyway: for every car, I counted roughly a dozen bicycles and twenty motorbikes.
There is a constant cacophony of horns as drivers indicate their intention to pass. Honks last just long enough to cross from a friendly "Hi there!" to a gruff "Watch it!" Necessarily so when the right of way belongs to the group with the highest mass, the rules of the road being "don’t hit anyone, don’t get hit." Most traffic does pause at the four stop lights in town, fluid schools of motorbikes, bicycles, cars, and pedestrians vibrating tension for the light to change, the occasional breakout who just ignores the color entirely. People careen out from sidewalks, alleys, and around corners with a honk, then continue the wrong way down the side of the road until they can work their way across traffic. Groups of people ride in parallel and carry on their conversations, being passed by someone(s) veering into the the theoretical other lane. Perhaps half the bikes carried more than one rider: another perched on the back, feet on the pedals moving with the driver. Motorbikes frequently carried three, sometimes four: mom, dad, two little girls, and a tiny dog. Even the local cops rode two to a bike, the guy in back lazily thumping his bully stick against his leg as they rode along.
But then, there is the complete peace of the beaches just a few miles away: Cua Dai and, just to the north, China Beach. We had miles of perfect sand nearly to ourselves.
The streets of town are lined with tailor shops and art galleries, the sidewalks full of bikes and motorbikes for rent ($1 and $5 a day for us) and little food stands roasting corn on the cob, grilling skewered meats, or dishing up noodles. I had marked the location of a recommended snack spot on our map with a reminder to look for the tiny red plastic stools. Useless! The ten inch high seats are everywhere, people eating with knees almost to noses. Everyone calls out "You buy something!" (what an odd phrase to have converged on) but here, No actually seems to mean No. Only rarely did a pitch carry on after politely declining.
The people we met were friendly, helpful, and curious, to the point that we often questioned whether they were selling something we didn’t yet know about. Riding a motorbike down the highway that parallels the coast to Da Nang, two women pulled up on a bike next to us. The one in her late twenties struck up a conversation, wanting to know where we were from, our names, where we were heading, how long we had been in town. The forty-something driver introduced herself as Lee, chiming in that she lives in Marble Mountain and we should stop there before the beach. We passed them a little later; they zoomed back by so that they could signal for us to turn when we got to Marble Mountain. We kept right on going, never finding out whether they had something to sell us in town.
Leaving the international terminal at Bangkok’s airport and arriving in Ho Chi Minh City’s delivers the jarring contrast and other-world feel we expected upon our arrival in Southeast Asia. A short hop on a little plane takes us away from the Guccis, Tod’s, people-movers, and abundant overpriced airport restaurant selections bearing a surprising resemblance to Charles de Gaulle International and into the drabbly-painted, aging bunker of an immigration area where our visas bought in the US are no good and there is no reasoning. The plane-load of people feels like a tiny handful in the huge space and there are no lines. The hall echoes. A fifty gets us two shiny new visas from the barely twenty-something in military green behind the expansive glass. The humid heat outside is stifling. We shuffle through to the one-room terminal. There is a snack stand on one side stocked with Oreos, Coke, Pringles, garish under the fluorescents. It is exactly the clicheed scene you would put in a movie to encapsulate communism today, except perhaps for the half-dozen iPhones in the hands of Vietnamese families around us. Is this a look at our next 9 days?
It took us over 30 hours to get to Bangkok. We have now been here for a little over twice as long. And it’s time to go.
Bangkok is everything we expected and more, and in some ways, less. It is every bit a traffic-packed, polluted, bustling modern metropolis of high rises, luxury brands, and endless eating options. The metro and Skytrain offer outstandingly easy, efficient and clean public transportation for foreigners and the local middle and upper classes to some sectors. The ferries are cheap and great, as long as your route is on the river. For everywhere else, there are taxis, where you can at least enjoy a break from the heat whiile parked in traffic. English is almost as widely spoken as in New York. There are plenty of places where you can also pay almost New York prices. We expected–maybe even hoped for–a stronger sense of disorientation and a feel of foreignness that we have not yet found.
So why travel–at least to cities–when they are fast becoming more and more the same? We have been asking ourselves that a lot. I don’t have a great answer. Fun, sure. Even without really falling through the rabbit hole, there are clearly things to gain from new experiences.
It is often the little things that make us laugh or go “huh.” Some miscellaneous observations from our time here:
With this brief glimpse of Bangkok, off we go to the small world heritage port town of Hoi An, Vietnam!
Yes, I’m a hopeless toyaholic. For a 3+ week trip, clearly I had to bring along a full collection of gadgets. I tried to mostly use what I’ve got, but i did pick up a few odds and ends. Here’s what’s in my bag:
I debated long and hard about which camera to bring. I love photography and the process. I like to at least try and take photographs, vs simple snapshots, though most of my stuff is crap of course. Despite always hoping, the simple truth is the image quality and DOF control that a SLR provides really makes a huge difference in the final product. Of course, the untaken photograph never looks good, which is why I only brought my little camera along on this trip. Between horror stories of condensation and the thought of 10lbs+ of equipment in 90 degree heat, I’d probably never take a single picture.To be fair to the LX3, it’s a GREAT camera. It’s the only little guy I’ve actually enjoyed using so far. I’ll let you all know how it holds up.
I did need to buy a few accessories – specifically a 52mm tube extension and polarizer plus some more memory. With all the outdoor photography coming up, I wanted to cut down on that glare. I picked up some cheapo stuff off ebay, and in a shipping miracle worthy of note, the ebay auction I ordered on Thursday was delivered via USPS on Saturday.
With flash as cheap as it is, I took 4 8GB SD Class 6 cards. that’s good for 500 pictures per card in RAW+JPG mode. I’m shooting RAW+JPG so I can post the JPG’s on the road easily, and have the full control of RAW when I get home.
When taking so many photos in so many places, it’s easy to blur it all together. I’m using my old Wintec WBT-201 GPS datalogger to geotag all my photos. I turn it on in the morning, offload the log in the evening and charge it up. Based on the timestamp, the software will automatically tag each photo with the location where it was taken. Getting the timezone stuff set is a bit tricky, but once that’s done it works great!
I bought an Asus EEE 900HA just for this trip. With 160GB HD, wifi, and all the computing I need and all for <$300, it’s pretty much the perfect traveling device. It’s insanely small, great battery life, and really useable. I’ll be backing up all the photos here, as well as using it in case I run out of SD space (which I hope I do). The first thing I did was install Windows 7. It took about 4 hours to get all the drivers on and all happy. the end result is worthwhile – it’s working perfectly. Win7 is so much better than XP, and it actually works unlike vista. So far no bugs or problems at all.
An added bonus of the netbook – it’s also an oversized skype phone! That’s me talking to my parents over there on the right. OK, you don’t actually have to hold it like this. I had just dropped some water on the keyboard, and wanted to make sure nothing happened, plus was trying to get as close to the mic as possible. BTW, video via skype and win7 is awesome.
With a fair bit of downtime this trip, we’ll have lots of time to consume media. I’ve had my Kindle 1 since they first came out and love it, despite constantly finding the book selection very limited. I’ve read 50 books on it so far, and it does just disappear into your hand. Sadly, sharing isn’t a strong suit. Olivia hasn’t had the chance to read any of these books, since as soon as I finish one, I’m reading the next.
Amazon has a nice feature with the Kindle. If you’re lucky enough to have two kindles (or more!) linked to the same account, you only need to pay once for the content. By purchasing a second kindle, Olivia gets instant and free access to all the books I’ve already bought. Yes, this is one way books kick ebooks ass, but the benefit of having two small kindles was worth it for us. I now have 15 books to read, Olivia has 60.
I ripped a bunch of movies from DVD with Handbrake on my mac, and transferred them over to the netbook. VLC plays them back great, and a 9” screen is great, especially compared with airplane screens.
Of course, we also have iphones. Although they’re on, we’re really just using the phone part for emergency. Mostly they’re here for tunes and games. OK, games.
Amazingly, most of this crap charges via USB. Only the camera and kindle 1 don’t. I managed to get away with shockingly little space for all this. All told, ALL of this stuff is smaller than just my normal 15” MBP and power adapter. My back is happy.